When I was younger, I visited the Fulton Fish Market in NYC and thought that it was the biggest fish market I'd ever seen. Well that boyhood memory was quickly eclipsed when I visited the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo this July.
Tsukiji is undoubtedly one of the largest wholesale fish markets in the world and certainly the biggest in Japan. To give you a point of reference, the market handles a seafood auction (Mondays - Saturdays) - some 450+ types of seafood in all.
The complex is massive - picture an old abandoned airplane hangar - and the place is hopping, so be prepared that when you visit carts and trucks will be whipping by you.
It is a working fish market and not some sort of fabricated Disney-esque tourist site. Also, the workers are trying to do their job, so be respectful and get out of their way and certainly ask if you can take a picture before going into full blown paparazzi mode. These men are very proud and love the idea that you want to take a picture of them but appreciate the courtesy of being asked before flashbulbs start going off in their face. (I made sure to ask each time - so I practice what I preach - alright back to the typing.)
The area is composed of two primary sections an inner market - where most of the action takes place. The vendors look over the tuna and then calculate their bid for the auction that day.
This wholesale market complex houses some 1,000+ stalls.
Each owner has their own stll where they then exhibit / carve up the tuna that they've bought that day to then sell their items to a client, restaurants, etc. Here are some stall workers carving up that days purchase.
The outer market is an area also worth checking out after you've finished walking around the inner market stalls, as this is where you'll find shops and restaurants, selling the freshest sushi you'll ever have in your life for breakfast.
I went looking for a small place that was full of local fisherman and came upon this nice place. They had tuna, tuna and more tuna, so I was in heaven. The place Dai Edo is small with roughly 10 stools, so when every seat is taken it is packed, but the dishes are fantastic. (Photo of the restaurant's sign as well as a sample of their menu items below)
The auction takes place early, so I recommend doing this on your first morning in Tokyo, since you'll probably be up at 4AM due to jet lag/the time difference from your home country. You can get there via subway (Hibiya or Toei Oedo lines) or taxi whichever you prefer.
Have a great time.
All the best....Mark
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