While a climb to the summit is not a simple hike and it is tough - when you finally reach the summit it will be well worth it. I recently climbed to the summit and thought that this first hand account might offer some tips and encouragement to those 'still on the fence' about attempting a climb.
Any time that you mention that you are planning to climb Mt. Fuji to a friend in Japan, you will get a Pavlovian response mentioning the famous quote that " A wise person climbs Mt. Fuji once, only a fool would climb it twice'. Well, in the vain of full disclosure this was my second climb - the first climb was when I was 25 and this more recent climb was at the ripe old age of 40 - and I can say that it was excillerating, fatiguing and inspiring; however, I've no delusional plans to make a 3rd climb to the peak. Here is a photo of yours trully after making it to the summit after climbing all night to see the sunrise.
It is thought that the first ascent was in 663 by a monk and the first ascent by a Westerner was Sir Rutherford Alcock in 1860.
Mt. Fuji is Japan's highest peak with an altitude of 12,388ft (3,776m) and one of the world's most symmetrical cones. The official climbing season is from July 1st - August 31st - I mention this only so that if you are looking for frequent trains, open rest stops along the hike, etc that you will want to try to climb during this time period. You can of course climb to the peak during the rest of the year, but certainly you'll need to be a more experienced climber should you wish to summit on your own.
Even in July and August, there is still snow at the peak with temperatures close to or below freezing, so be prepared to dress warmly, leave the shorts and flip flops at home. I had on my ski jacket, winter hat, gloves and still felt the cold. Also, even for those who are active, I run 3 times a week, you will feel the altitude and as you climb, you are wise to make frequent stops along the way to acclimatise.
There are a total of 6 trails to climb to the peak, depending on which prefecture you start from, most trails have equal trail lengths averaging to 15 1/2 miles. I started my climb from the Lake Kawaguchi Station 河口 in Yamanashi Prefecture after initially beginning my journey from central Tokyo in Shinjuku.
For those with a Japan Rail Pass, you can use the pass to take the JR Chuo Line Special Express train to Otsuki Station. Upon arrival, you will then switch to the Fuji Kyuko Line (not covered by the pass) to Lake Kawaguchi Station costing JPY1,110 and then switch again to take a bus with the Fuji Kyuko Bus company to Mt. Fuji Level 5 costing JPY1,500. The Fifth station is typically the most common starting point for climbers these days. If by chance you arrive after the last bus has departed, there are taxis available, as this is a higher cost (roughly JPY11,000), it is best to share a taxi with other climbers. After all, you've travelled all that way, no sense in turning back because you missed the last bus.
At the Fifth station, there is a gift shop to buy a variety of assorted items such as water (I highly recommend that you buy 1 or 2 liter bottles in Tokyo as the cost for water is much higher at this point), rain gear, hiking sticks, post cards, snacks, etc. Also, as an FYI, as you climb higher up the mountain various rest stops charge more for snacks and bathrooms. The hiking sticks certainly make for a nice souvenir as you can stop at various rest stops along the way and have them burn a logo for that stop into the wood of the stick so as to commemorate your climb.
As you leave the Fifth Station area, you will head to your right towards a flat gravel path with side retaining walls, this is the easy part until you reach the rock path with a metal chain where you will begin the 'real climb'. The chain is there so as to prevent you from falling off the path, as there are no lights, I strongly encourage you to bring a flashlight or a headlamp.
I began my climb around 8PM and climbed throughout the night, as it was my intention to reach the summit in time to see the sunrise. I climbed on a Tuesday evening in July 2008, so there were certainly fewer people than if I had made the climb on a weekend - I recommend a mid-week climb if your schedule permits, as the path will be less crowded and you can make more frequent rest stops along the way.
The feeling of camaraderie is great, as both western and Japanese climbers encourage each other as you climb through the night, by simply saying Gambate kudasai - Good luck and the reply is typically Gambari masu - I will do my best.
I reached the summit at 3:45AM right on schedule in order to see the sunrise scheduled that day for 4:30AM from the top of the mountain at 12,388ft.
Along with the other climbers, I took a moment to relax and ready my camera for the first glimmers of sunrise for the top of the mountain well above the clouds. It was without a doubt the most spectacular sunrise that I've ever seen and made the climb worth it.
After the sunrise, I had a stroll around the crater rim still with snow even in July. As I walked around the rim, I felt like I was on the surface of Mars with all the reddish lava rocks no doubt there since the last eruption - I say this simply to mention and point out that Mt. Fuji is a volcanic cone and while it has been dormant for some time - I'd be remiss if I didn't mention this.
There are several spots at the summit worthwhile for a stop before making the hike back down, for example, a column noting the highest point on Mt. Fuji (photo below), a post office so that you can mail a postcard from the Mt. Fuji post office, a few spots to catch a hot bowl of noodles, a shrine and also another spot to burn Mt. Fuji summit stamp into the walking stick that you will most likely be dragging with you at this point. Still how can you have come all this way to not get a stamp from the summit?
After the climb, you can take a much easier route back down the mountain to the 5th station, this is a winding path, much easier than the way up.
It is very dusty and since you'll already be rather sweaty at this point, you might want to bring along a change of clothes with you. Keep in mind that all of your fellow climbers will also be in a similar state as you, so no need to worry about being too aromatic. Besides, at this point, you'll be too tired and sleep derived to care - all that you'll have on your mind is a nice hot shower and a bed to crash in as you revel in your climb to the peak of Fuji.
So for those of you deciding whether or not to do the climb - without a doubt follow the Nike motto - JUST DO IT! It is amazing and a memory that you'll have with you forever.
All the best....Mark
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