Ebisu (恵比寿) - Beer Museum Yebisu

Tired of looking at another Renoir, Rodin, or Monet...well how about a museum of a different sort? The Beer Museum Yebisu is indeed a full fledged museum that is not only open to the public for free but has a Tasting Lounge at the end of the tour. Mind you there are no free samples at the end , but for beer lovers this is certainly a spot worth stopping by for a visit.

The museum covers everything from the brewing processing , ancient brewing equipment, historical photos, labels, a theater with a 3d film, etc.

One of the items that was indeed of interest was a display from WWII to encourage the return of empty bottles that surely will have any bottle deposit program currently in place in the USA beat. The display message read as follows:

Beer For Use of Allied Forces Only and Free of Tax

Please return all empty bottles. The loss of bottles means that much less beer for you.

Dai Nippon Brewery Co., Ltd.

I've no doubt this was a strong motivator to get the troops to return those empty bottles back in the day.

As mentioned, at the end of the museum is a Tasting Louge, where you can get a 4 beer sample course of draft beer and enjoy the labels product. The 4 items on offer are Edel Pils, Yebisu Beer, Major Ale, Yebisu Premium Black Beer. (Photo below of tasting course offered)

The museum is open daily Tuesday - Sunday from 10AM - 6PM and you can contact the museum directly for additional questions at Tel: 03-5423-7255.

All the best...Mark

Gonpachi Restaurant Tokyo 権八

Strolling through Tokyo....hungry...tired of yet another meal that seems just like all of the others that you've had week after week?

Well foodies out there, there is a great unique and innovative culinary wonder in the heart of Tokyo, a great restaurant named Gonpachi.

"Gonpachi takes the best of traditional Japanese cuisine to the next level, serving soba noodles and "kushi"-style skewered delicacies in a traditional Japanese setting orchestrated to both relax and inspire. "

The restaurant is housed in a unique building constructed to resemble a recreated Japanese warehouse also know as a kura. I have no doubt that when the Director Quentin Tarrantino was looking for inspiration for sets for his film Kill Bill, he saw this place and said ...Ah Ha, that's it!

When you enter the entire staff screams out in unison welcoming you to the restaurant. It is wonderful and certainly different from other spots you may have eaten at previously.

The restaurant has 3 levels and an inner courtyard area where an open air kitchen is located, giving the restaurant a 'theater in the round' feel. The welcoming staff and the ability to see the staff prepare your meal all lend to the feel and ambiance of Gonpachi.

I went all out and had the JPY6,000 set course which was well worth it. Plate after plate of delicious edibles were paraded to our table by friendly and attentive staff. Isn't it great to eat something beautifully presented and have no idea what it is but thoroughly enjoy every last bite?

The restaurant has a great web site with menu offerings, additional photos and directions if you want to take a look before heading there for a meal

http://www.gonpachi.jp/en/nishi_azabu/home/location

Impressive yet restrained, Gonpachi is an oasis of calm amidst the urban chaos that is Tokyo.

I hope you enjoy this special culinary find while enjoying all of the other things that the capital has to offer.

All the best....Mark

Sengakuji (泉岳寺)

Honor, loyalty, revenge....these are all sentiments that make up the fabric of the story associated with Sengaku-ji (泉岳寺) a Buddhist temple located in Takanawa, central Tokyo.




Every Japanese student learns this tale which centers around Lord Asano and his 47 Samurai warriors - the events of which took place in 1702.

Lord Asano was forced to commit seppuku 切腹 (suicide by disembowelment) after a quarrel with Lord Kira. As a result of the fight, Lord Asano drew his sword while they were on the grounds of the Edo Castle, which was strictly forbidden. Lord Asano's punishment was to kill himself, as was the custom at the time; however, Kira went unpunished. (A statue of Lord Asano was erected on the grounds of the temple - photo below)


After this, the 47 samurai associated with Asano, then had no master and became Ronin 浪人(masterless samurai). Since they had no master and their former master was disgraced, they had no means to earn a living and no other master would take them into their group.

The 47 Ronin plotted revenge and attacked Kira, beheading him and presented the head at the grave of Asano which was located at Sengakuji temple. After they avenged their masters death, and restored honor to his name, these 47 ronin committed seppuku at the temple.

The grave for Asano as well as those of his 47 samurai are all located at Sengakuji and even to this day are still adorned with flowers by fans and admirers of their loyalty and the honor they demonstrated on behalf of Lord Asano.


So in this day and age of instant gratification and me first attitudes, I think we can all take a moment to reflect on the message of this story and learn a thing or two.

All the best....Mark

Tokyo Taikokan Drum Museum - Asakusa 浅草

Looking for something different after seeing all of those temples, shrines and samurai swords?


I recently came across a small museum in Asakusa 浅草 devoted to drums. It is not too far from the other main attraction in Asakusa - Sensoji, so this might be a nice stop after you've visited that famous temple.


The Tokyo Taikokan Drum Museum is on the fourth floor of a rather nondescript building which houses some 600 drums under one roof/exhibit.



The great thing about this museum is that it is not merely a place that houses some nice items to look at....no, no, no....this museum is interactive and you are encouraged to pick up a pair of drum sticks next to a drum and play till your hearts content. (Items marked with a red mark can be played and enjoyed). In fact when I arrived, it was pin drop quiet; however, in a matter of minutes some kids arrived and the place was loud and lively.


They have drums literally from all over the world, for example : Japan (Kotsuzumi - a sheep skull drum used in Noh), Korea (Junggo Imperial Drum from the Kan Dynasty), Myanmar (Mahoratuk - a 15th century Frog Drum which was a symbol of a rulers wealthy and authority), Spain (Pandero de pecho), Ireland (Bodhran) and India (Khol) to name but a few.


On the ground floor is a shop that specializes in drums ranging from those used in Japanese festivals, as well as Japanese flutes, masks and some souvenir items as well. You'll actually buy your ticket to the museum in this shop before taking the elevator upstairs to the museum gallery.


The museum is open Wednesday - Sunday from 10Am - 5PM and admission is JPY300. Feel free to take a look at their web site for additional details : www.tctv.ne.jp/members/taikokan


All the best....Mark

Mt. Fuji 富士山 - Climbing to the Summit 12,388 ft

Climbing Mt. Fuji is certainly something that is on the 'to do list' or wish list for most travellers to Japan. Some opt to simply take a tour bus to the 5th level with any number of package tours in order to snap a few pictures of this most famous of Japan's iconic images, while others step up to the plate to embrace the challenge.



While a climb to the summit is not a simple hike and it is tough - when you finally reach the summit it will be well worth it. I recently climbed to the summit and thought that this first hand account might offer some tips and encouragement to those 'still on the fence' about attempting a climb.

Any time that you mention that you are planning to climb Mt. Fuji to a friend in Japan, you will get a Pavlovian response mentioning the famous quote that " A wise person climbs Mt. Fuji once, only a fool would climb it twice'. Well, in the vain of full disclosure this was my second climb - the first climb was when I was 25 and this more recent climb was at the ripe old age of 40 - and I can say that it was excillerating, fatiguing and inspiring; however, I've no delusional plans to make a 3rd climb to the peak. Here is a photo of yours trully after making it to the summit after climbing all night to see the sunrise.

It is thought that the first ascent was in 663 by a monk and the first ascent by a Westerner was Sir Rutherford Alcock in 1860.

Mt. Fuji is Japan's highest peak with an altitude of 12,388ft (3,776m) and one of the world's most symmetrical cones. The official climbing season is from July 1st - August 31st - I mention this only so that if you are looking for frequent trains, open rest stops along the hike, etc that you will want to try to climb during this time period. You can of course climb to the peak during the rest of the year, but certainly you'll need to be a more experienced climber should you wish to summit on your own.

Even in July and August, there is still snow at the peak with temperatures close to or below freezing, so be prepared to dress warmly, leave the shorts and flip flops at home. I had on my ski jacket, winter hat, gloves and still felt the cold. Also, even for those who are active, I run 3 times a week, you will feel the altitude and as you climb, you are wise to make frequent stops along the way to acclimatise.

There are a total of 6 trails to climb to the peak, depending on which prefecture you start from, most trails have equal trail lengths averaging to 15 1/2 miles. I started my climb from the Lake Kawaguchi Station 河口 in Yamanashi Prefecture after initially beginning my journey from central Tokyo in Shinjuku.

For those with a Japan Rail Pass, you can use the pass to take the JR Chuo Line Special Express train to Otsuki Station. Upon arrival, you will then switch to the Fuji Kyuko Line (not covered by the pass) to Lake Kawaguchi Station costing JPY1,110 and then switch again to take a bus with the Fuji Kyuko Bus company to Mt. Fuji Level 5 costing JPY1,500. The Fifth station is typically the most common starting point for climbers these days. If by chance you arrive after the last bus has departed, there are taxis available, as this is a higher cost (roughly JPY11,000), it is best to share a taxi with other climbers. After all, you've travelled all that way, no sense in turning back because you missed the last bus.

At the Fifth station, there is a gift shop to buy a variety of assorted items such as water (I highly recommend that you buy 1 or 2 liter bottles in Tokyo as the cost for water is much higher at this point), rain gear, hiking sticks, post cards, snacks, etc. Also, as an FYI, as you climb higher up the mountain various rest stops charge more for snacks and bathrooms. The hiking sticks certainly make for a nice souvenir as you can stop at various rest stops along the way and have them burn a logo for that stop into the wood of the stick so as to commemorate your climb.

As you leave the Fifth Station area, you will head to your right towards a flat gravel path with side retaining walls, this is the easy part until you reach the rock path with a metal chain where you will begin the 'real climb'. The chain is there so as to prevent you from falling off the path, as there are no lights, I strongly encourage you to bring a flashlight or a headlamp.

I began my climb around 8PM and climbed throughout the night, as it was my intention to reach the summit in time to see the sunrise. I climbed on a Tuesday evening in July 2008, so there were certainly fewer people than if I had made the climb on a weekend - I recommend a mid-week climb if your schedule permits, as the path will be less crowded and you can make more frequent rest stops along the way.

The feeling of camaraderie is great, as both western and Japanese climbers encourage each other as you climb through the night, by simply saying Gambate kudasai - Good luck and the reply is typically Gambari masu - I will do my best.

I reached the summit at 3:45AM right on schedule in order to see the sunrise scheduled that day for 4:30AM from the top of the mountain at 12,388ft.

Along with the other climbers, I took a moment to relax and ready my camera for the first glimmers of sunrise for the top of the mountain well above the clouds. It was without a doubt the most spectacular sunrise that I've ever seen and made the climb worth it.

After the sunrise, I had a stroll around the crater rim still with snow even in July. As I walked around the rim, I felt like I was on the surface of Mars with all the reddish lava rocks no doubt there since the last eruption - I say this simply to mention and point out that Mt. Fuji is a volcanic cone and while it has been dormant for some time - I'd be remiss if I didn't mention this.

There are several spots at the summit worthwhile for a stop before making the hike back down, for example, a column noting the highest point on Mt. Fuji (photo below), a post office so that you can mail a postcard from the Mt. Fuji post office, a few spots to catch a hot bowl of noodles, a shrine and also another spot to burn Mt. Fuji summit stamp into the walking stick that you will most likely be dragging with you at this point. Still how can you have come all this way to not get a stamp from the summit?

After the climb, you can take a much easier route back down the mountain to the 5th station, this is a winding path, much easier than the way up.

It is very dusty and since you'll already be rather sweaty at this point, you might want to bring along a change of clothes with you. Keep in mind that all of your fellow climbers will also be in a similar state as you, so no need to worry about being too aromatic. Besides, at this point, you'll be too tired and sleep derived to care - all that you'll have on your mind is a nice hot shower and a bed to crash in as you revel in your climb to the peak of Fuji.

So for those of you deciding whether or not to do the climb - without a doubt follow the Nike motto - JUST DO IT! It is amazing and a memory that you'll have with you forever.

All the best....Mark

Yasukuni Shrine 靖国神社

Today, August 15th, typically a day when memorial ceremonies concerning WWII are held, Japan's Prime Minister Fukuda, kept his promise to never visit the Yasukuni Shrine (Shrine of Peace for the Nation) which honors the roughly 2.5 million individuals (military and civilian) who have died in a war since the Meiji Restoration (late 1860's) on behalf of the Emperor of Japan in a war.

This action by the current Prime Minister is certainly one that has helped to improve Japans image amongst other nations in Asia such as China, North/South Korea and Taiwan to name a few.


This shrine is constructed in the classic Shinto style, with a massive steel torii gate at the entrance and during times of war, soldiers were told that if they died on the battlefield fighting for the honor of their country, then their spirit would find glory and be honored/worshipped for their actions, perhaps as we might think of someone worshipping a god.

On the particular day that I happened to be there, I came across a group of men dressed up as soldiers marching past the shrine and through the gates to honor those who died on behalf of their nation.


The pathway leading up to the shrine is wide and massive with lanterns, sculptures and statues like this one honoring Omura Masujiro who is often referred to as the 'Father of the Modern Japanese Army': This is the first western style bronze statue in Japan and was created by Okuma Ujihiro.


Controversy aside, this historical shrine/landmark is worth a visit. Admission is free and you can easily reach the shrine on foot from the nearby Kudanshita subway station. If you'd like to learn more about the shrine, you can also visit ww.yasukuni.or.jp

All the best...Mark

Yoyogi Park 代々木公園 - 1964 Tokyo Olympic Stadium

OK, so I am obsessed with the Olympics, there I said it....but I thought of another Japan tie in to the Olympic Games...namely Yoyogi Park (代々木公園).

For those who weren't yet around, in 1964 the Summer Olympic Games were held in Tokyo and Yoyogi Park (one of the largest parks in Tokyo - adjacent to Harajuku and the Meiji Shrine) was where all the action took place. The picture below is of Kenzo Tange's Olympic Pavilion....which not incidentally, because of its sweeping steel curved roof, won architecture's highly regarded award in 1967....the Pritzker Prize.


The unique sweeping curved roof effect is achieved as a result of using steel suspension cables. In light of the fact that some things built 5 years ago are falling apart, this 40+ year old buildings duration is a credit to the architectural prowess of the architect.

Not just an award winning former Olympic Stadium, this building has been maintained and is still frequently used for various events such as national and international sporting events. Who knows perhaps it might be used again in 2016 if Tokyo is selected as the site for the 31st Summer Olympic Games.

OK, back to watching the Beijing Olympics.

All the best....Mark

Olympic Games 2016 Host City Candidate Tokyo

8.8.08 ....few things come to mind with this special date except for the opening ceremonies of the 29th Summer Olympic Games in Beijing China. The ceremony was impressive indeed and China put on one heck of a show tonight.

While we are just starting these games and already know that London will host the next Summer Olympics....the competition for the 31st Summer Olympic Games host city is already heating up and guess who is in the short list of potential hosts.....drum roll please...Tokyo, Japan

Already, all over Tokyo, you can see posters and banners, such as this one, touting the city as the deserving future host for the 2016 Olympic Summer Games. This poster is hanging along the front of the Tokyo Metropolitan Building in Eastern Shinjuku.

Chicago, Madrid, and Rio de Janeiro are the other 3 candidates still in the running; however, Tokyo and Madrid are widely perceived as being the two leading candidates. The fact that Olympic Games have recently been held in Asia and Europe might give Rio the edge. Ultimately time will tell when on October 2, 2009, the 2016 Games host city will be announced.

Tokyo's logo for the 2016 Games is a musubi (むすび), a traditional, mystical knot which signifies times of blessing, and this blessing appears to make use of all of the Olympic colors.

Whatever the outcome, whichever city hosts the Olympics in 2016...here's to the spirit of the Beijing Summer Olympic Games starting tonight and the embodiment of the motto of the Olympic Games:

Citius, Altius, Fortius...... "Faster, Higher, Stronger"....

Let's try to strive for these goals in our own lives each and every day.

All the best....Mark

Tsukiji Fish Market 築地市場 - A Must For Sushi Lovers

When I was younger, I visited the Fulton Fish Market in NYC and thought that it was the biggest fish market I'd ever seen. Well that boyhood memory was quickly eclipsed when I visited the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo this July.

Tsukiji is undoubtedly one of the largest wholesale fish markets in the world and certainly the biggest in Japan. To give you a point of reference, the market handles a seafood auction (Mondays - Saturdays) - some 450+ types of seafood in all.

The complex is massive - picture an old abandoned airplane hangar - and the place is hopping, so be prepared that when you visit carts and trucks will be whipping by you.

It is a working fish market and not some sort of fabricated Disney-esque tourist site. Also, the workers are trying to do their job, so be respectful and get out of their way and certainly ask if you can take a picture before going into full blown paparazzi mode. These men are very proud and love the idea that you want to take a picture of them but appreciate the courtesy of being asked before flashbulbs start going off in their face. (I made sure to ask each time - so I practice what I preach - alright back to the typing.)

The area is composed of two primary sections an inner market - where most of the action takes place. The vendors look over the tuna and then calculate their bid for the auction that day.

This wholesale market complex houses some 1,000+ stalls.

Each owner has their own stll where they then exhibit / carve up the tuna that they've bought that day to then sell their items to a client, restaurants, etc. Here are some stall workers carving up that days purchase.

The outer market is an area also worth checking out after you've finished walking around the inner market stalls, as this is where you'll find shops and restaurants, selling the freshest sushi you'll ever have in your life for breakfast.

I went looking for a small place that was full of local fisherman and came upon this nice place. They had tuna, tuna and more tuna, so I was in heaven. The place Dai Edo is small with roughly 10 stools, so when every seat is taken it is packed, but the dishes are fantastic. (Photo of the restaurant's sign as well as a sample of their menu items below)

The auction takes place early, so I recommend doing this on your first morning in Tokyo, since you'll probably be up at 4AM due to jet lag/the time difference from your home country. You can get there via subway (Hibiya or Toei Oedo lines) or taxi whichever you prefer.

Have a great time.

All the best....Mark

Asakusa (浅草) - Sometaro - Restaurant

In Asakusa 浅草, a wonderful part of Tokyo, there is a great Okonomiyaki restaurant named Sometaro. (photo below of front door/entrance)


For those uninitiated in this unique culinary item....okonomiyaki お好み焼き is a a dish that I'll simply describe as a working class meal, in essence it is a Japanese pancake filled with any number of ingredients depending on what you like to eat - you name it beef, chicken, fish, noodles, vegetables, etc.


They bring all of the ingredients to you in a bowl which you then mix and cook on the grill in front of you. The entire pancake is then usually covered with some mayonnaise, a brown sauce that my friends refer to as bull dog sauce and then its all topped off with bonito fish flakes.



There are a wide number of variations ranging from Kansai, Hiroshima and Tokyo style okonomiyaki all with different toppings and batter consistencies according to the region of origin. I prefer Hiroshima okonomiyaki as it is filled with noodles and I opted for shrimp in mine.



The interior of Sometaro is basic and not for those looking for elegant/fine dining (photo below) - it is good hearty food that you cook on a grill in front of you as your sit on tatami mat floors. Bear in mind that you'll need to remove your shoes at the entrance, however, they have plastic bags handy, so you can carry your shoes with you when you are seated at your table.



The staff are great and if you've never had okonomiyaki before they will give you some help, tell you if it needs to be cooked a bit longer or if its time to flip the 'pancake'.

Sometaro is located at 2-2-2 Nishi Asakusa - a short walk from the nearby Asakusa subway station and is also near the Taiko (Drum) Museum, which I'll cover in another posting. You can also take a look at their web site as well for more information http://www.sometaro.com/

I hope that you enjoy this really great working-class meal.

All the best...Mark

Sunday in Shinjuku 新宿区

On Sundays during the summer, as most Tokyoites takes time to relax and spend time with their family, certain parts of Shinjuku are closed to vehicular traffic. This creates a nice environment, as you exit the East Exit of Shinjuku Station and can roam the streets without worrying about oncoming cars, motorcycles or bikes.

As you exit the East Exit of the station, you'll immediately see a famous meeting spot - Studio Alta (photo below). The site has a massive TV screen monitor several stories high and is a spot that many of Tokyo's residents use to easily meet up with friends outside of a station that sees some 2 million people a day.

While this area has an entirely different vibe and feel at night as Kabuki-cho comes to life, during the day, there are lots of coffee houses, movie theaters, art galleries, record shops, book stores like Kinokuniya, department stores such as Isetan, the nearby Hanazono Shrine and countless cafes to enjoy.

On Sundays, you can often catch some local artists/street performers. I had the good fortune to run into an event on Sunday featuring 2 new acts that were performing to promote their new CDs - one duo was named The Cigarman and their web site is http://hamq.jp/i.cfm?i=sakamoto33 while the other act was a ladies group DSC and their web site is http://shakariki.info/. Both were great and entertaining on a hot sunny day.



Nearby to the stage was a great little cafe - Moa 4 Cafe (photo below). Here you can get a cold drink, coffee, beer, strawberry soda floats (I had one of those and it was delicious) as well as hot dishes in case you're hungry. They have plenty of cafe style tables and chairs directly next to their location, so that you can also enjoy the nearby musicians that I referenced earlier.



So head to Shinjuku on a Sunday this summer as there are a lot of diverse things that can be enjoyed.

All the best....Mark

Nihonbashi 日本橋

As you continue to explore Tokyo, there are numerous wards and areas of interest; however, one area that is often passed by or overlooked is Nihonbashi (日本橋).

Nihonbashi , while primarily a business area in central Tokyo, was built up and developed primarily around and as a result of Nihonbashi, meaning Japan bridge. The first bridge was built on the site in the 1600's and was made entirely of wood - nothing at all like the stone structure occupying the same area today which was built in the early 1900's.



As you can see the bridge is now beneath an expressway overpass, which was built around the time of the 1964 Tokyo Summer Olympic Games, obscuring the classic view of Mt. Fuji from the bridge which was immortalized in ukiyo-e wood block prints by Hiroshige, i.e. 53 Stations of the Tokaido.

Recently, there has been a movement by the citizens to get rid of this expressway - time will tell if this passes or not.

As you cross the bridge, heading north towards Mitsukoshi Department store, you will see a bronze marker (photo below), which is the point from which all distances in Japan are measured - i.e. if you see a sign along the highway noting the distance to Tokyo, it is this marker that is used to calculate the distance.



Passing by this marker, you will see Mitsukoshi Department store on the left side of the street on Mitsukoshimae. Famous for selling kimonos and started by the Mitsui family, this store personifies high end shopping under one roof....think of it as the Harrods of Tokyo - high end retail clothing, kimonos, a food hall in the basement, etc. While walking around the department store make certain to see this impressive, ornate and colorful sculpture in the lobby (photo below) which spans 3 - 4 floors.

In this district, you can also find the Tokyo Stock Exchange (東京証券取引所) - one of the top 5 exchanges in the world - which has a visitors observation deck and an exhibit comparing this exchange to other major exchanges around the world.

Also, in this area are the Kite Museum, the Bridgestone Museum of Art, the Pokemon Center, as well as the National Film Center. So put on a comfortable pair of sneakers and explore this often overlooked neighborhood.

All the best.....Mark

Excelsior Caffe - Shinjuku (新宿区)

Without a doubt, my favorite coffee house in Shinjuku 新宿区 - Excelsior Caffe - is a little oasis amidst the throngs of people populating this busy ward in Tokyo.

In this day and age with a certain Seattle coffee chain seemingly open on every single street corner, Excelsior Caffe is clean, friendly, and good value for your money - in short, it is a find.

As you enter, they have a great display counter and staff that seem happy to see you. They take there job seriously, and the staff seem to enjoy what they do. I think we have all at one time or another gone into other coffee shops, that shall remain nameless, only to be greeted with a "I'm making minimum wage, so don't ask anything of me" gaze.

You can get the full range of coffee drinks iced/hot coffee, lattes, cappuccinos, blended drinks as well an assortment of sweets and sandwiches

On my recent visit, I had an iced almond caramel latte, an fozen macha latte, as well as a mont blanc and mille crepe pastry (all pictured below) - what can I say I was hungry and it was a sweltering Tokyo summer afternoon.

There are of course numerous Excelsior Caffes located throughout Tokyo and Japan all offering similar coffees, blended drinks. More details, additional menu items and caffe locations can be found on their web site http://www.excelsiorcaffe.com/ - hope you enjoy it.

All the best....Mark