Sunday, August 24, 2008

Mt. Fuji 富士山 - Climbing to the Summit 12,388 ft

Climbing Mt. Fuji is certainly something that is on the 'to do list' or wish list for most travellers to Japan. Some opt to simply take a tour bus to the 5th level with any number of package tours in order to snap a few pictures of this most famous of Japan's iconic images, while others step up to the plate to embrace the challenge.



While a climb to the summit is not a simple hike and it is tough - when you finally reach the summit it will be well worth it. I recently climbed to the summit and thought that this first hand account might offer some tips and encouragement to those 'still on the fence' about attempting a climb.

Any time that you mention that you are planning to climb Mt. Fuji to a friend in Japan, you will get a Pavlovian response mentioning the famous quote that " A wise person climbs Mt. Fuji once, only a fool would climb it twice'. Well, in the vain of full disclosure this was my second climb - the first climb was when I was 25 and this more recent climb was at the ripe old age of 40 - and I can say that it was excillerating, fatiguing and inspiring; however, I've no delusional plans to make a 3rd climb to the peak. Here is a photo of yours trully after making it to the summit after climbing all night to see the sunrise.


It is thought that the first ascent was in 663 by a monk and the first ascent by a Westerner was Sir Rutherford Alcock in 1860.

Mt. Fuji is Japan's highest peak with an altitude of 12,388ft (3,776m) and one of the world's most symmetrical cones. The official climbing season is from July 1st - August 31st - I mention this only so that if you are looking for frequent trains, open rest stops along the hike, etc that you will want to try to climb during this time period. You can of course climb to the peak during the rest of the year, but certainly you'll need to be a more experienced climber should you wish to summit on your own.

Even in July and August, there is still snow at the peak with temperatures close to or below freezing, so be prepared to dress warmly, leave the shorts and flip flops at home. I had on my ski jacket, winter hat, gloves and still felt the cold. Also, even for those who are active, I run 3 times a week, you will feel the altitude and as you climb, you are wise to make frequent stops along the way to acclimatise.

There are a total of 6 trails to climb to the peak, depending on which prefecture you start from, most trails have equal trail lengths averaging to 15 1/2 miles. I started my climb from the Lake Kawaguchi Station 河口 in Yamanashi Prefecture after initially beginning my journey from central Tokyo in Shinjuku.

For those with a Japan Rail Pass, you can use the pass to take the JR Chuo Line Special Express train to Otsuki Station. Upon arrival, you will then switch to the Fuji Kyuko Line (not covered by the pass) to Lake Kawaguchi Station costing JPY1,110 and then switch again to take a bus with the Fuji Kyuko Bus company to Mt. Fuji Level 5 costing JPY1,500. The Fifth station is typically the most common starting point for climbers these days. If by chance you arrive after the last bus has departed, there are taxis available, as this is a higher cost (roughly JPY11,000), it is best to share a taxi with other climbers. After all, you've travelled all that way, no sense in turning back because you missed the last bus.

At the Fifth station, there is a gift shop to buy a variety of assorted items such as water (I highly recommend that you buy 1 or 2 liter bottles in Tokyo as the cost for water is much higher at this point), rain gear, hiking sticks, post cards, snacks, etc. Also, as an FYI, as you climb higher up the mountain various rest stops charge more for snacks and bathrooms. The hiking sticks certainly make for a nice souvenir as you can stop at various rest stops along the way and have them burn a logo for that stop into the wood of the stick so as to commemorate your climb.



As you leave the Fifth Station area, you will head to your right towards a flat gravel path with side retaining walls, this is the easy part until you reach the rock path with a metal chain where you will begin the 'real climb'. The chain is there so as to prevent you from falling off the path, as there are no lights, I strongly encourage you to bring a flashlight or a headlamp.

I began my climb around 8PM and climbed throughout the night, as it was my intention to reach the summit in time to see the sunrise. I climbed on a Tuesday evening in July 2008, so there were certainly fewer people than if I had made the climb on a weekend - I recommend a mid-week climb if your schedule permits, as the path will be less crowded and you can make more frequent rest stops along the way.

The feeling of camaraderie is great, as both western and Japanese climbers encourage each other as you climb through the night, by simply saying Gambate kudasai - Good luck and the reply is typically Gambari masu - I will do my best.

I reached the summit at 3:45AM right on schedule in order to see the sunrise scheduled that day for 4:30AM from the top of the mountain at 12,388ft.

Along with the other climbers, I took a moment to relax and ready my camera for the first glimmers of sunrise for the top of the mountain well above the clouds. It was without a doubt the most spectacular sunrise that I've ever seen and made the climb worth it.











After the sunrise, I had a stroll around the crater rim still with snow even in July. As I walked around the rim, I felt like I was on the surface of Mars with all the reddish lava rocks no doubt there since the last eruption - I say this simply to mention and point out that Mt. Fuji is a volcanic cone and while it has been dormant for some time - I'd be remiss if I didn't mention this.


There are several spots at the summit worthwhile for a stop before making the hike back down, for example, a column noting the highest point on Mt. Fuji (photo below), a post office so that you can mail a postcard from the Mt. Fuji post office, a few spots to catch a hot bowl of noodles, a shrine and also another spot to burn Mt. Fuji summit stamp into the walking stick that you will most likely be dragging with you at this point. Still how can you have come all this way to not get a stamp from the summit?


After the climb, you can take a much easier route back down the mountain to the 5th station, this is a winding path, much easier than the way up.


It is very dusty and since you'll already be rather sweaty at this point, you might want to bring along a change of clothes with you. Keep in mind that all of your fellow climbers will also be in a similar state as you, so no need to worry about being too aromatic. Besides, at this point, you'll be too tired and sleep derived to care - all that you'll have on your mind is a nice hot shower and a bed to crash in as you revel in your climb to the peak of Fuji.

So for those of you deciding whether or not to do the climb - without a doubt follow the Nike motto - JUST DO IT! It is amazing and a memory that you'll have with you forever.

All the best....Mark

Friday, August 15, 2008

Yasukuni Shrine 靖国神社

Today, August 15th, typically a day when memorial ceremonies concerning WWII are held, Japan's Prime Minister Fukuda, kept his promise to never visit the Yasukuni Shrine (Shrine of Peace for the Nation) which honors the roughly 2.5 million individuals (military and civilian) who have died in a war since the Meiji Restoration (late 1860's) on behalf of the Emperor of Japan in a war.

This action by the current Prime Minister is certainly one that has helped to improve Japans image amongst other nations in Asia such as China, North/South Korea and Taiwan to name a few.


This shrine is constructed in the classic Shinto style, with a massive steel torii gate at the entrance and during times of war, soldiers were told that if they died on the battlefield fighting for the honor of their country, then their spirit would find glory and be honored/worshipped for their actions, perhaps as we might think of someone worshipping a god.

On the particular day that I happened to be there, I came across a group of men dressed up as soldiers marching past the shrine and through the gates to honor those who died on behalf of their nation.


The pathway leading up to the shrine is wide and massive with lanterns, sculptures and statues like this one honoring Omura Masujiro who is often referred to as the 'Father of the Modern Japanese Army': This is the first western style bronze statue in Japan and was created by Okuma Ujihiro.


Controversy aside, this historical shrine/landmark is worth a visit. Admission is free and you can easily reach the shrine on foot from the nearby Kudanshita subway station. If you'd like to learn more about the shrine, you can also visit ww.yasukuni.or.jp

All the best...Mark

Sunday, August 10, 2008

Yoyogi Park 代々木公園 - 1964 Tokyo Olympic Stadium

OK, so I am obsessed with the Olympics, there I said it....but I thought of another Japan tie in to the Olympic Games...namely Yoyogi Park (代々木公園).

For those who weren't yet around, in 1964 the Summer Olympic Games were held in Tokyo and Yoyogi Park (one of the largest parks in Tokyo - adjacent to Harajuku and the Meiji Shrine) was where all the action took place. The picture below is of Kenzo Tange's Olympic Pavilion....which not incidentally, because of its sweeping steel curved roof, won architecture's highly regarded award in 1967....the Pritzker Prize.


The unique sweeping curved roof effect is achieved as a result of using steel suspension cables. In light of the fact that some things built 5 years ago are falling apart, this 40+ year old buildings duration is a credit to the architectural prowess of the architect.

Not just an award winning former Olympic Stadium, this building has been maintained and is still frequently used for various events such as national and international sporting events. Who knows perhaps it might be used again in 2016 if Tokyo is selected as the site for the 31st Summer Olympic Games.

OK, back to watching the Beijing Olympics.

All the best....Mark

Friday, August 8, 2008

Olympic Games 2016 Host City Candidate Tokyo

8.8.08 ....few things come to mind with this special date except for the opening ceremonies of the 29th Summer Olympic Games in Beijing China. The ceremony was impressive indeed and China put on one heck of a show tonight.

While we are just starting these games and already know that London will host the next Summer Olympics....the competition for the 31st Summer Olympic Games host city is already heating up and guess who is in the short list of potential hosts.....drum roll please...Tokyo, Japan

Already, all over Tokyo, you can see posters and banners, such as this one, touting the city as the deserving future host for the 2016 Olympic Summer Games. This poster is hanging along the front of the Tokyo Metropolitan Building in Eastern Shinjuku.

Chicago, Madrid, and Rio de Janeiro are the other 3 candidates still in the running; however, Tokyo and Madrid are widely perceived as being the two leading candidates. The fact that Olympic Games have recently been held in Asia and Europe might give Rio the edge. Ultimately time will tell when on October 2, 2009, the 2016 Games host city will be announced.

Tokyo's logo for the 2016 Games is a musubi (むすび), a traditional, mystical knot which signifies times of blessing, and this blessing appears to make use of all of the Olympic colors.

Whatever the outcome, whichever city hosts the Olympics in 2016...here's to the spirit of the Beijing Summer Olympic Games starting tonight and the embodiment of the motto of the Olympic Games:

Citius, Altius, Fortius...... "Faster, Higher, Stronger"....

Let's try to strive for these goals in our own lives each and every day.

All the best....Mark

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Tsukiji Fish Market 築地市場 - A Must For Sushi Lovers

When I was younger, I visited the Fulton Fish Market in NYC and thought that it was the biggest fish market I'd ever seen. Well that boyhood memory was quickly eclipsed when I visited the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo this July.

Tsukiji is undoubtedly one of the largest wholesale fish markets in the world and certainly the biggest in Japan. To give you a point of reference, the market handles a seafood auction (Mondays - Saturdays) - some 450+ types of seafood in all.






























The complex is massive - picture an old abandoned airplane hangar - and the place is hopping, so be prepared that when you visit carts and trucks will be whipping by you.



It is a working fish market and not some sort of fabricated Disney-esque tourist site. Also, the workers are trying to do their job, so be respectful and get out of their way and certainly ask if you can take a picture before going into full blown paparazzi mode. These men are very proud and love the idea that you want to take a picture of them but appreciate the courtesy of being asked before flashbulbs start going off in their face. (I made sure to ask each time - so I practice what I preach - alright back to the typing.)

The area is composed of two primary sections an inner market - where most of the action takes place. The vendors look over the tuna and then calculate their bid for the auction that day.



This wholesale market complex houses some 1,000+ stalls.


Each owner has their own stll where they then exhibit / carve up the tuna that they've bought that day to then sell their items to a client, restaurants, etc. Here are some stall workers carving up that days purchase.



The outer market is an area also worth checking out after you've finished walking around the inner market stalls, as this is where you'll find shops and restaurants, selling the freshest sushi you'll ever have in your life for breakfast.
I went looking for a small place that was full of local fisherman and came upon this nice place. They had tuna, tuna and more tuna, so I was in heaven. The place Dai Edo is small with roughly 10 stools, so when every seat is taken it is packed, but the dishes are fantastic. (Photo of the restaurant's sign as well as a sample of their menu items below)





















The auction takes place early, so I recommend doing this on your first morning in Tokyo, since you'll probably be up at 4AM due to jet lag/the time difference from your home country. You can get there via subway (Hibiya or Toei Oedo lines) or taxi whichever you prefer.

Have a great time.

All the best....Mark